An Aegean Adventure
by
Tony Robinson
There we were Wendy, myself our daughter Nichola, son in law
Marcus and grandchildren Jessica and Charlie.
The plan was to go east and get to the island of Mikonos and
return westerly thereby having the Meltimi wind on our beam both there and back, advice gleaned from one Rod Heikell in his
excellent pilot books. As usual our plans did not come to fruition and we did not get to Mikonos.
However we had a very good time sailing Ploes with and without
the Meltimi, arriving at several interesting islands which had not been heard of by us before.
On the Saturday Wendy and I walked into the town of lavrion (about
20 minutes walk, turning right out of the marina) and set about emptying the shelves of the local supermarket and getting
it all back to the Marina in a Taxi and on board. (On the last day but one of the holiday we motored to lavrion town tied
up on the quay and were in the supermarket in 3 minutes)
The next day we left Port Olympus and set sail for Kea .Our grandchildren
are regular visitors to our yacht on the East coast so have experience of being at sea, never the less we decided on a short
trip to get acquainted with Ploes. We Sailed most of the way caught a view of the temple of Poseidon making a note to go there
on our return leg.
As we had small children on board we decided to initially tie
up on Quays so we went to Vourkari on the North west coast of Kea. No electric connections here but the water tanks could
be filled from the tap.
We has a pleasant evening here walking around to the head of
the bay, where we had a meal on the beach. The food was fine but the mosquitos also dined well on several of us.
The next morning we set off around the top of Kea the journey
was lumpy going into the wind but improved once past the top and made our way down the east side to a bay called Khalidhonki
where we spent the rest of the day and night at anchor as the sole yacht in the bay, well protected from the prevailing winds.
A small taverna on the beach was available for all the usual Greek food and drink. A fishing vessel came in at about 10m pm
anchored and prepared for the next days work.
We left at 6 am the next day or the two adult males on board
manned the decks whilst the rest of the crew slept on. Onward easterly to Siros (The pilot book on board does not go this
far east).Arrived after motoring initially and sailing for two thirds of the trip at Finikas where we stayed for two days
on the quay. Here you can get electric and water as there is a harbourmaster that was helpful. It was the only place in two
weeks that we had to pay for mooring, altogether for two nights, electric and water the total cost was just over €220.We
caught a bus, which stops in the middle of the village to the capital of the island Ermoupolis a large port and vibrant town
with a large marina although very noisy with ferries coming and going. A place worth noting, there being plenty of marine
engineers, chandlers etc should the need arise for any of them.
Back at Finikas the talk was of Mykonos and the wind was building
up. Consulting Mr Heikell’s bible we decided to not go that far as Mikinos due to the holding being not good in the
meltimi and opted to stay one more night on Siros moving to the bottom of the island in a bay called Ormos Varis.
Here we anchored until the following morning doing the usual
things swimming reading eating drinking etc. One could go ashore at the head of the bay and at the west side where there was
a small beach and a taverna where we eat a respectable meal.
Next morning an early start saw us making a course to Sifnos.
As usual motoring to start with and as the wind built up sailing on a broad reach to our destination Kamares on the North
West of the island. A ferry port, we moored stern too on the quay on the second attempt initially putting out the anchor too
far from the quay and running out of chain.
A delightful town with extremely clear water and a beach 3 minutes
walk from the yacht. Our granddaughter discovered a star fish on the bottom. Unfortunately Charlie was not well and needed
medical attention for an ear infection. The local people were very helpful giving telephone numbers of the hospital a short
taxi ride away. The occupation here is watching the ferries coming and going especially as it was Friday and the beginning
of the weekend. Wendy, Jessica and I watched (with drink in hand) the comings and goings. Water on the quay here a lovely
gentleman whose English was good supplied it, but no electric.
Next day with anti biotics we went down the coast to Vathi and
anchored up 75 metres from the beach. A bay well protected form the wind and swell with a very narrow beach the houses coming
right down to the beach. On the quay were 2 interesting churches . The quay is only really suitable for motor cruisers.
Moving on the next day to Livadhi on Serifos we motored the whole
way as the temperamental wind was not available.
Here we moored on the quay where water and electric is available
from pillars which require a card which can be purchased from a bar to the right of the quay above the tourist office. On
the downside there are only two pillars on the quay one at each end, interestingly enough not many yachts seemed to want to
plug in, so we charged Ploes batteries for 12 hours or so.
Two nights here, the wind building up .We took the locals bus
up to the Chora a very worthwhile exercise a town is all footpaths through small houses all painted in white. In the winter
only one bar is open and it is up in the Chora. We walked back down to the marina on a well made path and steps. The beach
was 2 minutes from the quay as where the bars and restaurants.
We needed to make our way back to the north and decided to deal
with the meltimi motor sailing around the west coast of Serifors to Merikha on Kithnos arriving wet and salty. The quay here
is small so there had to be some negotiation with a Turkish Gullet and a family from the Netherlands who had been waiting
an hour before we arrived for a mooring place. Eventually the Port police let us tie up sides to on the ferry quay. The next
day we got a convential place on the quay. Water and electric on the quay provided by cards purchased from the travel agents
in the town.
Three nights here, in which we were waiting for the wind to subside
during this time we had and a morning in a bay on the headland which was like a paradise a sandy Isthmus. On the Friday we
made our customary early start and set off for Kea or Sounion. The oracle (Mr Heikell) was right there is more wind in the
lea of the land; we had a small battle to get past the bottom of Kea the wind funnelling down from NE. Once out of the lea
we had a superb sail with furled main and Genoa to Sounion.
We anchored in the bay of Sounion anxiously. The pilot book rates
the holding here very lowly but our experience was good, the anchor held while we climbed the hill to the temple of temple
of Poseidon. A great view all round, so even if old Greek ruins are not your thing the view is worth the effort.
Onward and back to base with a sigh, we had had a great experience
visiting islands away from the tourist trail, done some great sailing and met lots of pleasant people. Ploes behaved impeccably
all the way. Hopefully we can take the opportunity and visit again.